Everest Base Camp Trek Part 8/11, Day5 - Tengboche to Dingboche

I woke up in a freezing room again just before half six in the morning. I’m really glad I brought a sleeping bag to this trip with me. A few days ago, just before I reached Namche I met a Czech couple who were on the way back from the EBC already and had a brief chat with them. They did not carry sleeping bags on their trip and told me that the temperature dipped at places to -13 degrees. They had to wear all the layers they had and still struggled. They made it, but next time I’m sure they will include sleeping bags in their luggage.

Even I did not know that basically except the “common room”, nothing else in hotels, lodges, and teahouses is being heated up. Once you arrive at your destination you usually stay fully clothed, actually most of the time you will even put more on as you have stopped moving and your body won’t generate as much heat.

The weather on this trip so far has been second to none. Meaning, every day for at least half a day we had clear skies, with only clouds coming in later on. This morning was no different at all, I’m already sitting in the common room has a great view to Everest and surrounding peaks. The valley is still in the shade, but all the peaks are lit up by the Sun. And it’s quiet and peaceful. A trekker can’t ask for any better.

For the breakfast, I ordered a small pot of lemon tea so I can share it with my German friends and added veg. friend noodles to my order. The prices were already higher here and cost 600 NPR and the pot of tea 400. The prices are certainly going up the higher you get, but this is as expected as they have to haul everything here on their backs or animals.

I also had a brief chat with a lovely Polish couple who were doing this trek as well. We met up already a few times and last night we stayed at the same hotel. As they are doctors, I asked them about hypertension, how would the person feel, how painful or painless it could be and more importantly how long would it take for all bodily functions to stop. I’m sure you all know why I was asking them such questions. I fully understand the value of life, however in my case - right now - my will to live is just not there. I fully understand the damage I would do, especially to my family and some of my friends.

The day looks fantastic and we aim to leave at about 8:15 to beat the crowds. We left/started our trek at half eight, going downhill first before we climbed up again. As it was still quite early, the ground was still frozen at places, with slippery ice and snow. After about 15 minutes we have reached Deboche (3710m) where we originally planned to stay. That was the lowest point of the trek, from there on it was mostly uphill. I stopped with Tom in Pangboche (3930m) for a tea and a chat with other trekkers. There were two English gentlemen going to hike up to one of the summits with the help of professional mountaineers to whom we had a great chat.

From there we said goodbye to the last tree as from that point there weren’t any due to the altitude. We had to go through 2 small villages - Shomare (4010m) and Orsho before the trail split up and we picked the right turn in order to get to Dingboche (4410m). The landscape was just gorgeous and I frequently stopped to take photographs of the surrounding area. I can’t wait to load them into the Lightroom on my laptop to check them out. Hopefully, they will be good enough for printing too.

Upon our arrival, we have checked in to Snow Lion Lodge, which was at the base of the town, still owned by an Everest sherpa.

The lady who was there welcomed us warmly even gave us a glass of warm fruit juice. The rooms were basic but clean and the price asked for them was reasonable - set to 500 NPR. You, of course, have to have your meal in the lodge, otherwise, they might charge you an extra 2000 NPR for your stay.

I left my backpack in my room, took only my camera with me and went out to look around the town and to take more pics. After about 15 minutes I ended up in a local cafe/bakery called Cafe 4410. It was very warm and inviting inside. Actually, the standard was quite hight there, nice seating areas, the smell of the coffee everywhere. I would definitely recommend this place for those of you stopping in Dingboche.

I ordered chocolate brownie and sat down with another trekker - Vlad, which I also met a few times on the trek. He is a young (34) guy from Estonia, with decent English and a heavy Russian accent. Not even half an hour later, my two German friends - Philippe and Sebastian turned up as well. I diverted them to Snow Lion Lodge, where they checked in and joined us in the cafe shortly after.

When I got back to the lodge, the fireplace/stove in the middle of the common room was already producing a lot of heat, so I stood next to it for over an hour before I went to get rid of my stinky boots.

It’s interesting how many trekkers you meet during the trip like this; again, the Polish couple (I have forgotten their names) were here in the same lodge and we had a good chat on different topics. As they were doctors, I told them about my experience from Darwin, when in 2013 I had to spend over 5 weeks in a hospital and almost lost my life in the process.

When I look back at that experience, I always feel the life is worth living under any /all circumstances. Feeling how I feel right now makes me question my own thoughts. On one side I understand the value of life, on the other, I can’t imagine being with the love of my life. The funny thing is that I know what she has been saying about myself and the reason why we separated. On the other side, most of my close friends (and hers too), knew the real reason anyway. I personally think she should have stayed professional as making up stories quite often backfires. I never got hurt so much in the past, but even then, I mentioned it a few times already, if she would give me one more chance, I would probably completely forget this bad experience.

While I was writing the above, my food came bang on time. I almost forgot that it was already 6:30 pm and ordered my dinner to be served for this exact time. Talk about Nepalese hospitality! I don’t think I ever experienced service like this in the past.

This diary is turning up better than I have expected. I actually enjoy writing it. If, just if I will make it and come back to real life, I’m thinking of writing a book titled - My 2 years with M. The book will be full of adventure, love, albeit with a very sad end. I don’t think I will work for some time as I definitely would need time to recover, so I can use that time to maybe - write. I might even look at how to write a novel and learn something about it. Of course, first I have to make it through this trip and not only reach the Everest Base Camp but also return back to Australia.

The last conversation of the day was about the reasons we came here to do this trek. Everyone planned it well in advance but me. It’s not like I have not thought about coming here in the past. But when the guys asked me the question, I could not lie. So I told them the truth. This section will stay in my diary and I will not re-type it here for obvious reasons. There was a second reason, which I mentioned though - I was here to try to pull myself together, survive the huge blow to my face and get over it. I just wish I do this trip together with my sweetheart under different circumstances.