Everest Base Camp Trek Part 7/11, Day4 - Namche to Tengboche

Yesterday I left the restaurant at about 9 pm as I still felt rather cold and welcomed the warmth of my sleeping bag. I tried to read a book on my Kindle and managed a few chapters as I did not feel very tired compared to the last few days. I think I switched it off at about 10 pm, thinking of getting a good night sleep. I fell in asleep shortly after, waking up at about half midnight again.

From that moment there was nothing else for me than to think about my sweetheart and our story. My friend Trevor taught me how to put a different “hat” on my head to get different thoughts but last night this was just not possible. I tried to go back to sleep and that was not possible eighter.

What happened between us made me a broken man. I was in love before, but with my sweetheart, this feeling was much deeper router than ever before. I think I am an intelligent person and can clearly distinguish the right from the wrong. The truth is, I kind of lost will to live. I can’t imagine my life with her now, I feel empty. I don’t think I slept since like midnight, I was actually contemplating on different ways how to end everything, how to get rid of the pain I carry now all the time with me. I’m really sad to know I’m capable of thoughts like that. I was making up different ways how to die, from getting frozen somewhere on this trip to jumping off a cliff in Slovakia, like the popular “Tomasovsky view”. Even though I’m the one sharing my near death experience I had a few years back when I lived in Darwin - Australia and when a certain bacteria decided to kill me. I just feel so empty now. My sweetheart used to ask me what I want from life and I tried to tell her, the most of everything I just wanted was to be with her.

Just before 7 am I managed to pack my stuff, including sleeping bag and went down to have breakfast. Tom joined me yet again, I ordered apple pancake and lemon tea. It was also time to pay for the accommodation and all the meals I had. The stay at the Kumbu Lodge - 2 nights, including 2x breakfast, 2x dinner, 1x shower, and some tea cost me 3780 NPR, which was about 48 Ozzie dollars.

We hit the trail almost exactly at 8 o’clock, after buying more Paracetamol just in case I start to feel more down under. I think after only about 15 minutes walking, we met the 2 German guys I originally met in Kathmandu. I was pleased to see them as I knew this is their first big trekking trip.

Our today’s destination was Tengboche (3870m). The first part of the trek took us down to Phunki Thenga (3250m), where the 4 of us stopped for a tea. This was the lowest part of the trek. From that point, you will be just going up the hill - 620m exactly without going single meter down. After climbing my first 200m up I decided to try to not to stop if possible - basically making it up without any breaks. I knew this might be not the brightest idea I had that day.

I thought I am already screwed up of my sweetheart so I kept thinking about her and in my head, I dedicated this uphill section to her. I wanted to prove to myself and to her that I’m still in good shape and that I can really do it. I was lucky and met a local Nepalese guy further up who was taking some shortcuts - steep ones, so I followed hip up even though it was much harder than the official trek. Every book and every Internet information suggest this section should take approx 2 hours to climb, I think I made it just under 50 minutes. I didn’t drink much waster as it was rather difficult to do so in motion and I got bad hickups at the top. I would NOT recommend doing what I did to anyone. Just take it easy and most importantly, take breaks - often!

The views once I reached Tengboche were just amazing. People were taking 360-degree panoramas of the peaks as well as capturing Tengboche and the local monastery.

For the lunch, we stopped at the local bakery, where the guys ordered slices of brownies, te and even noodle dish with an egg. I only had a coffee.

Feeling fueled up we checked in Hotel Himalayan for the night. All 4 of us almost instantly disappeared into their rooms, stuffing their cold bodies in the sleeping bags. I tried to read a book but was soo tired that I had to put it aside and close my eyes for a while. After 5 pm I knocked on my friend’s doors and asked if they want to join me in the common room for the tea. We had a good chat about this trip and planned our next steps.

For the dinner, I ordered the traditional Nepalese meal (Dal Baht) and was given a healthy re-fill. I actually felt quite stuffed. Most of the hikers/trekkers stayed at the same hotel and it felt quite busy here. I think I drak well over a liter of a tasty lemon tea.

I even managed to send a short message to my mum, to make her not to worry much. This could be possibly the last message I sent to her. We’ll see.

It looks like every evening is pretty much the same - being back at the room just after 9 am, trying to read a book - this task is particularly hard as I am trying to fight my thoughts about - well, you know and trying to fall into asleep.

I usually wake up after the first 3 hours sleeping, then almost every hour since then. I’m even surprised that I can actually function during the day and that I can even keep walking for hours in a difficult terrain pushing every day closer to Everest Base Camp.