Everest Base Camp Trek Part 6/11, Day3 - Namche acclimatization day

It’s 7 am and I am already sitting in the restaurant at Khumbu Lodge where I am staying while acclimatizing in Namche Baazar.

It’s clear outside and the views are just amazing. Through the restaurant window, I am able to see a tall mountain peak, which I could not notice yesterday due to the low cloud cover. The sun is gently touching the peak with its rays, the snow reflecting them back. It’s really peaceful here. I sat facing the window for the best view. Now I know, why trekkers like to stay at this lodge. It’s centrally located - bang in the middle of Namche and has uninterrupted views of the local area and mountains. Due to the location of Namche, it only gets barely 180-degree views. Even then, coming here is definitely worth it.

I actually woke up before 6 and tried to read a book on my Kindle. I felt warm and cozy in my sleeping bag, thinking about the outside temperature. The rooms in the lodge are not heated, the only barely heated area is the common room - restaurant and even there you can only catch glimpse of the heat close to the big stove. People usually sit fully clothed. Even I have 3 layers under my down jacket plus trousers with warm tights underneath.

I could not fully concentrate on reading the book as my brain was still pushing thoughts about my sweetheart to me. I have to forget, I know, but even as time goes I don’t feel any better. You might think of me being crazy, thinking of her all the time, writing about how I feel in this diary. A good friend of mine told me - there are 3 billion women on this planet and that my sweetheart, based on what she did to me, was not the right one. He might be right (he is) in certain things, but I still strongly believe we were a good match. I even think I’m now able to write a separate book about all the experiences I had with her in the past few years if I wanted to. I strongly believe we done together more in 2 years than some people do in 20.

For breakfast, I had vegetable MoMo and a cup of lovely ginger tea. I could have eaten more easily, that that would have to do for now. My Ozzie friend Tom joined me for the breakfast, already prepared and packed for the day trip.

Just last night we decided to do an acclimatization trip to the Sherpa villages of Khumbu. I’m actually writing these words while sipping out on a lovely lemon tea in a small village called Khumjung (3780m). We left Namche Baazar at about 8 o’clock, slowly strolling uphill, asking the local lady with yaks for the directions. The first part of the trek was just uphill, till we reached the village of Zarok, which actually has an airstrip! It’s not being used through as they found out that people landing here had to spend time in air-pressurized rooms due to the high altitude. Actually, looking at my facts, the airstrip belongs to Shyangboche (3790m). The airstrip was built to serve the Hotel Everest View, but no airlines currently have planes that can climb and land at this altitude.

Before we reached Khumjung, he had to go through Khundle (3840m) village, which presented itself with picturesque opportunity. Even though it had a lot of housing, it was very quiet there. From Khumjung after having nice lemon tea for just 80 NPR, we pushed towards Everest View Hotel, taking pictures on the way as the weather kept improving.

Just before we reached the hotel, we got our first glimpse at the Everest! I was surprised to see it closer than expected. It blended well with the other peaks and if some other hiker would not tell me that that is Everest, I would probably not know. I actually liked other peaks more than the Everest as they just looked nicer, haha.

There was already a crowd of people at the hotel, but one table just cleared out and we had a place to sit with fantastic views of Everest and the surrounding area. I took heaps of pictures, even a couple of selfies. We had to wait quite a while before they brought us a menu but did not order anything like even a cup of tea cost 350 NPR or more.

The descent to Namche was not difficult at all, but I have to say I was happy that we want the other way around as going up first to the Everest View Hotel was much longer, steeper and hence more difficult.

I did have my poor moment just before the hotel, looking at the landscape and thinking of my sweetheart. I would do anything in this world to have her there beside me. I’m 100% sure she would enjoy every minute of this trek. The Himalayas are just magnificent, this is her environment and I should have been sharing this experience with her. I still remember how we planned a trip to Nepal together not even like 6 months ago. She was so excited. She loves mountains and she can’t live without them.

I remember our first trip together like it happened just yesterday. My best friend Viliam from Slovakia has invited me to a 3 day trip to “Mala Fatra” in Slovakia. They picked me up at 6 am near my mum’s place in Poprad, where I stayed. She (sweetheart) was already int he car with her friend Marek. I did not take much notice of her at first as I was still quite sleepy. However, this trip proved to be one of the best in my life, the 4 of us had a great time together and I could not take enough pictures of her. We had to plaugh through a lot of mud and the trails and she just kept laughing. I think I might write another book about how I met her and about our time together. As I mentioned previously, I experienced more with her in 2 years than previously in 20 years. My friends would tell me now that she is not as perfect as I imagined, but for me, she still is and always will e. I made a few bad calls and mistakes while I was with her for which I apologized multiple times, but I would have never done to her what she did in the end to me. I must be crazy still feeling deeply in love with her after all that happened. I’ll write it here again - forgive and forget!

Back at the Khumbu Lodge, I changed my dirty clothes and walked to the local bakery as I thought I deserve a slice of tasty chocolate banana cake. And I did! It was absolutely delicious, the sun was shining to my back, warming me up nicely. I felt good and sad at the same time.

The whole trek today took just 4 hours and was about 10km long. It was one of the more memorable ones, if not one of the best I have done in my life. Being surrounded by tall and majestic mountains I feel really tiny. It was just sad I could not share this experience with someone close. Maybe one day I get to do it with someone I will love, even though right now I don’t think I am able to love someone else as much as I did (and still do) my sweetheart.

The rest of the afternoon I spend in the Himalayan Coffe, charged my Kindle, mobile as well as my camera battery while having a nice hot tea. I did try to send some photo’s to my mum, but theri Internet was rather slow today.

I left the cafe at about 5 pm as I wanted to have a shower at the lodge, thinking this might be my last opportunity as I have heard that higher up everything is frozen. The first 2 minutes in the shower were quite nice, then the water temperature got down to 20 degrees and I had to finish my shower in cold water. I was shaking badly, but my thermals on, including the warm hat I bought in Kathmandu and wrapped myself in my sleeping bag and blanked.

For dinner, I went downstairs, where I met with Tom again. I ordered Dal Baht as I was quite hungry and expected that I might want a refill, which I actually asked for later on.

We also looked at our itinerary - where we will be going in the next few days. It looks like from tomorrow it will take another 7 days to reach the Everest base camp. I will need to take one more acclimatization day in Dingboche (4410m). Tomorrow I will be heading to Tengboche/Deboche, which should take about 4 hours, but the last 2 will be just uphill and this section is considered one of the hardest on this trek.

So far I would wholeheartedly recommend to come here and to do this trek to anyone. You got to walk in a beautiful environment, you got to see local life, eat local food. Everyone is very friendly here, nobody pushes you to buy anything in their shops. You also got to meet with other hikers as well. So far I mentioned only Tom, but I also met 2 Czech couple, a lovely Polish couple (they were both doctors) and even a guy from Moscow - Russia! Everyone is very fiend and are happy to talk to you.

Namche Baazar

Walking up to Kundle village

First view of Kundle village

Tom was kind to take a picture of me
Gate to Kundle village

Great mountain views

Khumjung village

First view of Mt. Everest!


Me with the Mt. Everest for the first time



Spectacular mountains

Back to Namche Baazar