Everest Base Camp Trek Part 11/11, Day8 - Lobuche to Everest Base Camp

I don’t believe I slept at all. I looked at my watch almost every half an hour throughout the night. I didn’t feel bad at all, I just could not fall asleep at all. I packed my bag as usual at 6:45 before I joined Tom in an empty common room at 7 for breakfast. I had porridge with water and lemon tea. We wanted to hit the trek as soon as possible as today was the day we will reach Everest Base Camp!

I was welcomed by the views of Khumbu Glacier. There was a couple of short and steep climb and we had to traverse Changi Shan Glacier before we reached Gorak Shep - the last village before you take the path to the Everest Base Camp. For the first time on this trip, I could see a flat sandy area, just under Kala Patthar peak, which was on my to-do list to climb the next day. Both I and Tom checked in the Budha Lodge and got adjoined rooms. Tom was hungry, even though we have eaten like 2.5 hours earlier.

I ate a couple of muesli bars and after an hour we packed light - removed all unnecessary things and continued towards the Everest Base Camp. I felt ok but did take another paracetamol just in case. The return trip to EBC from Gorak Shep should take on average 6 hours, I think we left at about 11 in the morning.

The landscape towards the EBC was just amazing. We were basically walking on the path across the Khumbu Glacier. And we stopped often. The photo opportunities were endless. Also, we could the effect of the altitude.

As it was still early March, there was no semi-permanent village of brightly colored dome tents as you normally see on TV when they show you the Everest Base Camp area. There were plenty of prayer flags though. I and Tom were actually lucky as there were only 2 girls and lo large groups once we reached our final destination. Of course, we took pictures of ourselves in front of the Everest Base Camp sign.

The mountains surrounding the camp were just magnificent. I used to see beautiful places, great mountains, but these were different. Even though you were at 5340m, the peaks around had over 7000m.

It felt actually good to be there. I was already thinking of doing this exact same trek a few years ago, but I never actually executed this idea up until now. I just wish I could share this experience with someone I love dearly (sweetheart, where are you?). I do miss her profoundly.

The return journey from Gorak Shep to Everest Base camp took us just 3 hours, so half the suggested time. And as I mentioned previously, we did not rush, stopped often and took heaps of photographs.

Upon our return to Gorak Shep, I had to take my antibiotics and ordered light lunch as I felt quite exhausted. I had a simple spaghetti with tomato sauce.

I did discuss the option to go to Kala Patthar (5545m) summit with Tom. He was not very keen in the beginning but when I told him I’m going to hike it up, he joined me. I was thinking of having better light in the afternoon as the sun would be behind our backs and we could get better photographs of Mt. Everest, compared to the morning, when the sun rises from behind the Mount Everest.

The path to Kala Patthar climbs up the grassy ridge from the Gorak Shep - you can’t miss it as it always has some hikers on it. According to the information we had, it takes an average of 2 hours to climb to the summit (5545m). There are plenty of prayer flags there including a weather station as well.

If I would have known how hard this hike would be, I might have not attempted it, especially walking that day from Lobuche to Everest Base camp and back to Gorak Shep. Just that trek was 12km long with an ascent of 809 meters and it took 5 hours! This might not sound a lot and under normal circumstances, 800m is a piece of cake, but don’t forget, that you are walking in 5000m altitude and higher!

Anyway, we had to stop on average of every 20m gained in altitude. The summit is only 400m above Gorak Shep, but you actually will o 655m up the slope! The last approx 80m was the hardest as you have to climb big boulders - there is no path.

The views from the summit were just magnificent. The entire south face was clearly visible, as well as Lho La - the pass between Nepal and Tibet. I took a few pictures before my camera sid good-bye and stopped working as the battery just did not like the cold at this altitude. And ti was fully charged! I tried to warm it up a little but it only allowed me to take a few more photographs before it gave up. I had to ask Tom to take some pics of me with his camera. There was also a Russian guy to whom I met already a few times on the trek and the first time on the Kathmandu airport. He even gave me a fridge magnet from Moscow - how nice from him!

After spending about 20 minutes at the top we made our way down. I did not have any issues, as my trekking poles were a great help, but Tom had to take it carefully as it was quite slippery, he even fell badly once, but fortunately did not injure himself in the process.

We made it down safely and I stopped tracking on my watch at exactly 3:00:00 - that’s exactly what it took us to go up and down from Kala Patthar (5550m).

I just wish I had Monika (using first time her name in this blog but as it is the last day and the last story, she deserves to be mentioned ) next to me instead of Tom. I always loved to see the complete satisfaction in her eyes after a hike like this. Why are you not here with me my love? I would give everything I have just to have you here…

Now here comes the sad part of this story. I’m not sure I want to return. I have nothing to return to. The love of my life does not love me anymore. I think this could be a perfect place, I can just take my sleeping bag, a few sleeping pills I have acquired, venture into the darkness, hide myself somewhere in the Khumbu Glacier where nobody will find me, get myself into the sleeping bag, eat the pills and think about Monika - what we had. Then I can fall asleep with a smile on my face, with the love feeling I still have, as I love her with all my heart.

It’s almost 8 pm and I need to decide. I just had mashed potatoes with veg and a small pot of Lemon tea.

Last supper?

I need to make sure all the arrangements I put in place are sound. I doubt they will find me, it’s more about what will happen when I am not longer about.

Monika, srdiecko (English - sweetheart), I love you with all my heart. I have never stopped loving you even after what you did to me. I forgave you. I wish you only the best, hope you will find your next love, who will be better than I was, who will give you more than I gave you, with whom you will experience more than you experienced with me and most importantly, who will give you family and children - something I did not have a chance to give you, even though I really wanted to.

Good-bye, my love. Oli xxx